once I laied out the paper on the ground I stuck the corners down and pulled the paper tight to make sure the paper has no air bubbles and humps and bumps and is flat to assure a smooth and acurite paper.
the next step is then marking out the following measurements:
this was marked out on out peaces of paper. the line measurements were easy to find but then I had to use the trammel to get the lines straight by making the ruler to match up to three points in total to reasure the lines are straight. we also used a huge long alimium battern to get our large lng lines all straight.
the pencil wasput into the closest hole to the nail and the nail was put onto the marking were the line needed to be. then made a pencil arc on either side of the desired marking. then moved the pencil to the hole showen in the picture and then put the nail on the new markings and sribe it abouve and below the marking. do this on both sides and then line the ruler up to the new three points and then it creates a new staight line.
once ththe center line, goastline, and other lines have been put in place it time to put in the following measurements.
we were also given these plans to work with.
these plans ened up not all being correct as I found out as the lofting unfolded.
the first real curve line which was completed was the sheer line. this was done by reading of the table of offsets the measurements from the profile offsets in the sheer collum. you measeureed up from the LWL to the desired lenght on each of the measurements. then nails are hammered lightly in about one millimeter away from the desired point so your pencil goes over it when lined up next to the battern. then once all the nails are all put in place, put a long thin wooden battern against the nails and one on each side to hold the battern in place and then scribe along the battern which shold meet up with your marked out points.
the batterns are usually about four meters or more in lenght. they are about teo centimeters by one centimeter in thickness and width. they can tayper off towards the ends to imporve on the tighter curve in the bow section. as we all found was that the long wooden batterns couldnt quite get the curvier lines fo the bow sections we would like so the trickier parts were repaced with the plastic thing battern which was about a meter in lenght and extreamly flexable.
As i mentioned before, there were many mistakes with in the table of offsets, the way to find and correct these mistakes is to follow the table and mark out all the points it says and then nail the nails in and use the battern to line all these points up, if thepoints do not line up, you need to checkyour measurements are correct by re-measuring (measure twice, cut once as they say), then make sure its not too tight of a curve for you battern and try it out with a ore flexable one, when it that dosent work, you need someone to pushthe bttrn into the marked point and hold it their while you look at the batterns line from the front or back of the drawing with the plans in hand t compare. if it looks correct, mark it out and then its good, if not, and it looks better not intersepting the table of off sets point, mark out that way which is correcrt,cou caun use a second nail, but if you have someone holding it, they offer imput and ideas forward which could help you and others. make sure that if your measurement is differant to the table of offsets, re-write in the correct measurement which you have discovered.
the next step is transome development, here is an image i have "borrowed" from Dylan Cox's blog whish explains it clearer than ,my photos.
it was from the website: http://yatebuilder.blogspot.com/2010/10/lofting-4angled-flat-transom.htmlas hesays in his blogg which i agree with, "the deckline is missing in this pictre which we included in ours"
here are some photos of how the decklines go:
the transom develoment was actully quite easy once you got your head around it, i must say it did take me a while but once i understood it (a while later) it was easy. the angled line on the proflie view was used by takin the intersepts of te cone body, butt 150 nd 200, chine, deckline the highest point of the stern reached witht the tickstiks, the tick sticks were also used in finding alot of the bow area ( the tick sticks are a very useful peises of paper, they are not long and not wide but you simply mark two point on the paper and refure them down onto another point of the drawing to find the intersepts.) once the intercept points were located from the halfbreath and alsoform the proflie, they wer projectd onto the ssecond transom paper stuck at the stern of the lofting.and then mark them out with your long rule. the trammel was use to create the 15degree angle at the stern, the nal was placed in the point of interseption of the sheerline and the stern meet. the specaly marked out measurement of 374mm was used to gain this by rueling the line, then measureing out ten cm then another ten and then back 5 cm to get the 15degrees. to get the rise of the stern was difficult for me as maths wasnt my strong point, you needed to measure up 50mills from the deck edge and mark that point. then go along to half way and then half the 50 mills to get your half way measuremnt, then find half way btween both poins and then find the 1/4 lenghts which should create a gentle cure up the create the tp of the transom section.
our tutor Murf, helped us alsong the way explaining SOME of the steps to us on the board. the reason i say SOME is becaase he purpusly left out sections so we could discover or work them out for ourselfs.
Our Lofting was assested by peer and tutor marking. this was were the teacher marked you along with your peers inorder to see where you are and were theyare with lofting. it was good as we could all reflect and it made it less of a compitions wich madeit less stressfull.
lofting has helped me alot in uderstanding the way lines flow and they way they need to be designed inorder to work with other lines, lofting has set me up well for the drawin stage which is next.
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