the first step to be done was the cutting list. the cutting list is the list of how much wood and what measurements thy need to be. the hole class contributed to this which was completed on the black board in the work shop.
once this step is finished the wood which has been inspected for knots and imperfections needs to be cut to size. the wood was al cut to size but we added an extra 20mm of waste wood onto the end for any mistakes and for offcuts when docking the wood sqaure.
then the thicknesser was used to thin out the wood to the corect size.
the machines used for cutting the wood was the spidasaw, a machine simalar to the drop saw but with extendable arms which are spring loaded for control and saftey. the wood was then thinned down on the buzzer to the right width. the bases were cut on a very large table saw. the saftey precations were taken to the right measurements, all loose clothing was tucked in with no dangly jewlrey which could get caught in the machine and drag you in. ear muffs were worn on all noisy machines and safteyglasses joined them.
we then marked out the ends of the wood on the angles and measured them again just to be sure. the sides have also been measured as well. the sides were cut using the bandsaw down the middle on the angle in the gap which was left for the kurf of the blade. the sides were then glued together with PVA. the glue was put on both gluein sides and then ubbed them up and down a cm or two to make sure the glue is sqwezzed out of the joints to reasure there are no dry joints. there was a brown packing tape strip put down on the work bench to make sure the wood doesnt get stuck to the bench. there was 2 nails put into the work bench and pushed the wood up against it and then pinned two on the other end so the glue would set. the reson for not using clamps is the problem of getting dry joints due to the wood being sqwezzed too hard and the glue comming out.
the sides were then docked to the right size with the drop saw.
once the ends have set over night they were removed from the nails on the work bench, the edges of the ends are now being routed out to fit into the sides and base. the router can take any shape or measumnt you have the router bit for which is the actual bit that cuts.
then the handles were all measured up to the correct lenght. the square sides of the handles were all rounded off with the router. the ends on the handles were chizeled and cut with the tennon saw out into a tennon joint, and on the inside of the ends the mortan joint was drilled into and then chizeled out to fit the tennon joint to create the motis tennon jont.
the bases were planned and cut to the right lengths to fit the box.
the next stage is to assemble the box together with PVA and nails. the ends were stood up and the glue was sqwezzed into the rabbit joints on the sides with three nails plced evenly apart and then a nail punch was used to flatten out the nail heads to make a flush lake all the nails were. this was same with the base and the handle was completed first with no nails in it.
Oil Stone Box:
the oil stone box needed to be created to house our shapening sones to make sure they do not get damaged or lost.
the first step was choosing the wood we were going to use. we decided on the victorian hard wood as it was made avalible to us at the last moment.
we first composed a cutting list together as a class on the black board like we did for the toolbox.
the class then cut and dressed the long peices of timber to a reasonable size to work with. weneeded to keep the wood as long as possible for the longest amount of time because it is easier to work with. wee got given our wood to work with and begain by ruling out the dimentions on it in a light pencil line.
then the part were the stone will be set in was drilled to the right depth witht the drill press. once that was done on both sides it was time to clean up the sides to make the stone houseing sqaure but making sure you keep just inside the marked out lines.
the hand rounter was set up on a jig to make sure the stones houding was all kept at the right right dpth and length. after the router has been through it is time to clean up the corners with the chizels making it all square.
you then fit the stone and make sure it is fitting well but with a little gap for the excess oil and debrie from the sharpenng stone to go into. also make sure the the stone fits in the lid remembering to keep measuring incase you are too shallow and then the box wil not shut. once you are happy with it. dock the the wood in the middle and place the stone inside. it should fit well but if it dosent, keep cleaning it up untill it does. then put the stone insdde and cut the box to the right lenghts on the drop saw.
then mark out on the sides and and on top to create the four angles on the top of the box. you carve these out with the plane and sand to clean up at the end of it.
measure up the middle of the bottom of the box and the sides the draw a curve with a penceil on both sides and then carve out with a concave spokeshave.
clean the box up at the end wth sand paper for a good finish.
Trammel:
the trammels were made but getting hold of a long thich piece of hard wood, this was stripped down and planned to a good thickness, then a small hole was drilled at one end for the nail to fit into tightly, then at the other at a certain lenght there was another hole the right size for a pencil to fit into. then more holes for pecils were created at 100mm lenghts from the nail.
we were all peer assessed on all of thee and then the tutor signed off the mark if he agreed.
the reason for the peer marking was to get us working togethe and learning from otheres mistakes and to also bounce ideas off each other and tr learn something new or help out someone struggelign.
